I am a software engineer. I think in systems, I document everything, and I don't trust things I haven't verified myself. That is the same approach I bring to every watch I sell.
This is not a checklist I hand off. I do this personally, on every piece, before it goes into the collection or ships to a buyer.
The first thing I look for is evidence of over-polishing: the soft, rounded edges that tell you someone ran a watch through a polishing wheel to hide wear rather than represent it honestly. Beyond that, I check the crystal for chips, crazing, and replacement glass; the crown for correct markings and proper threading; and every pusher for alignment and original finish. Case condition is disclosed in full — not averaged into vague language like "good used condition."
The caseback is one of the most informative parts of any watch. I check the engravings and stampings against known references for the model, look for signs of the case being opened improperly — tool marks, dents, scratched threads — and verify that a screw-down caseback is functioning correctly. On exhibition casebacks, I assess the movement's cleanliness and confirm it matches what should be inside. A caseback that does not match the case, or one that shows heavy tool abuse, raises immediate questions I pursue before moving forward.
Where accessible, I confirm that the movement inside matches the reference. A cal. 3135 should be in a Submariner; a cal. 321 should be in a vintage Speedmaster. I cross-reference serial numbers against known production tables to verify the movement's approximate production date is consistent with the case. If a watch has documented service history, I review it for authenticity and flag any anomalies — replaced parts, undisclosed movement swaps, or service dates that don't line up with the watch's stated story.
The dial is where fakes and "franken" watches most often reveal themselves, and it requires the most patience. I look at lume plots under a loupe for correct application, uniform aging, and original factory application versus aftermarket repairs. Indices must be properly seated and consistent with the production era. Printing quality — sharpness, depth, font accuracy — tells you immediately whether you're looking at an original dial or a reproduction. I also check the hands for correct shape, lume consistency, and aging that matches the dial.
Every watch has a serial number, and that number tells a story. I run it against publicly available production databases and cross-reference it with reference-specific guides to confirm the watch falls within the correct production window for its dial, case, and movement configuration. A watch with mismatched components isn't necessarily fake — sometimes it's a service replacement — but every inconsistency gets documented and disclosed. I also check whether the serial appears in any reported stolen watch databases.
Bracelets are frequently swapped, upgraded, or replaced with aftermarket parts — and most buyers don't realize it. I check the bracelet for correct stampings inside the links, verify the clasp style is appropriate for the reference and production era, and confirm the end links fit the case properly. A 78350 end link and a 93150 bracelet should be on a specific generation of Submariner; putting a later bracelet on an earlier watch — or vice versa — is a meaningful misrepresentation. Aftermarket or replacement bracelets are disclosed explicitly in the listing.
When a watch comes with its original box and papers, I review them carefully. The warranty card or chronometer certificate should match the reference number and serial number of the watch. I check the printing quality, the retailer stamping, and the date of sale against the watch's known production window. Box hardware — tags, hangtags, booklets, and cushion — should be period-correct for the production year. Papers that don't match the watch, or papers that show signs of alteration, get flagged and disclosed. A watch sold without papers is listed as such, clearly, every time.
The last step is not about the watch itself — it's about the number I put on it. I check recent sold listings across Chrono24, eBay, and auction results for the specific reference, configuration, and condition. I price to fair market, not to what I paid plus a margin I'm hoping someone will accept. The goal is a price that reflects honest value, moves at a pace I'm comfortable with, and leaves the buyer confident they didn't overpay. If the market has moved since I acquired a piece, I adjust the price — down or up — accordingly.
I want you to know exactly what you're getting before you commit — not discover it after the package arrives.
Every flaw I find gets disclosed in the listing — scratches, service history gaps, replacement parts, missing paperwork. I describe watches the way I'd want a seller to describe them to me. If I wouldn't put it in the listing, I don't list the watch.
I don't photograph watches to hide wear. I don't use lighting tricks to make scratches disappear. What you see in the photos is what you get — and the written description covers anything the photos can't fully capture.
If a watch arrives and is materially different from how it was described — not "I expected it to be shinier" but genuinely misdescribed in a meaningful way — I will make it right. That is not a policy buried in terms and conditions; it is a direct commitment from me.
For any watch in the collection, I'm happy to get on a video call and walk through it live — dial under a loupe, caseback open if applicable, bracelet fully extended. If that level of detail makes you more comfortable, that is exactly the call I want to take.
You are not dealing with a customer service team or an automated system. Every email goes to me, every question gets answered by me, and every transaction is my personal responsibility. There is no passing the buck here.
Every watch ships FedEx overnight with full declared-value insurance and a required signature. If something goes wrong in transit, it is covered. I have never had a shipping loss, but I'm not willing to take that risk with your watch.
Browse what's currently available, or reach out to discuss a specific piece, a sourcing request, or a trade.
